Watching a polar bear and her two cubs in the pack ice one day, then stepping onto the frozen ocean the next. Those two moments capture what made my voyage aboard PONANT’s Le Commandant Charcot so memorable.
I’ve spent years helping clients choose expedition cruises, but there’s nothing like discovering first-hand what makes one ship genuinely different. In this review of Le Commandant Charcot, I share my experience travelling aboard PONANT’S luxury icebreaker from Reykjavík, through Northeast Greenland and on to Svalbard, finishing in Tromsø, Norway in September & October 2026.
Of all the things I expected from this voyage, I hadn’t quite appreciated how much the ship itself would shape what we could see and do.
A ship designed to explore further
Le Commandant Charcot isn’t simply an expedition ship that can sail near ice. She is a purpose-built Polar Class 2 luxury icebreaker, capable of navigating extraordinarily challenging sea-ice conditions. Depending on the type of ice and the conditions, she can break through ice approaching three metres thick. She has even travelled to the Geographic North Pole.
For me, the impressive part wasn’t the technical specification. It was discovering what those capabilities meant in October, when much of the high Arctic was already firmly in the grip of advancing sea ice.
We were able to travel far north along East Greenland, into pack-ice environments that would be out of reach for most conventional expedition ships at that time of year. Instead of the ice limiting our expedition, it became one of the main reasons the experience was so extraordinary.
Exploration supported from the air
Another fascinating feature was the helicopter used for reconnaissance. It wasn’t about sightseeing flights for guests. It helped the team assess conditions, scout possible routes and look for new exploration opportunities.
Greenland’s fjord systems are enormous, and the ability to explore possibilities beyond the immediate view from the bridge was invaluable. Combined with the ship’s icebreaking strength and the expedition team’s judgement, this allowed us to venture into corners of the fjords that few travellers will ever experience.
It reminded me that true expedition cruising is about adapting to the place rather than expecting the place to adapt to an itinerary.
Two days that defined the voyage
On 8 October, we were navigating north through the pack ice when we came across a mother polar bear and her two cubs. Watching that family together, surrounded by a seemingly endless frozen landscape, was unforgettable.
The encounter was a perfect example of why reaching these remote areas matters. Wildlife sightings can never be promised, but travelling into their natural habitat gave us a remarkable opportunity.
Then, on 9 October, Le Commandant Charcot positioned herself beside an immense ice floe several kilometres long. We were able to step off the ship onto the frozen ocean and choose between hiking, snowshoeing and skiing.
Standing on that ice, with the ship beside us, was almost surreal. I’ve recommended countless expeditions, but this is the kind of moment that makes it difficult to compare a true icebreaker voyage with other voyages to the polar regions.
People who bought Greenland to life
We were also fortunate to travel with two Greenlandic Inuit members of the Le Commandant Charcot team, who have been part of the operation for years. Listening to their stories about their lives and home added something no scenery alone ever could.
We later dropped them off at Ittoqqortoormiit, one of Greenland’s most isolated settlements. Because we had heard their perspectives on board, arriving there felt more personal. The Arctic is not just a wilderness to admire. It’s also somewhere people live, with histories and experiences of their own.
Luxury after a long day outside
There’s an extraordinary contrast between being out in temperatures as low as -18°C and walking back into the warmth of Le Commandant Charcot.
After three- or four-hour mountain hikes, a hot drink or time in the sauna felt particularly welcome. I loved how the ship’s comfortable lounges and expansive windows kept us connected to the scenery, even when we came inside.
The French-inspired dining, including Nuna restaurant, and facilities such as the spa, indoor pool and heated outdoor Blue Lagoon give the ship a real sense of occasion. Yet the luxury never overshadowed the reason we were there: the Arctic itself.
Who would I recommend Le Commandant Charcot to?
I would recommend Le Commandant Charcot to wildlife enthusiasts, photographers and curious travellers who want to reach places few other passenger ships can access, without sacrificing comfort. She is especially compelling for experienced expedition cruisers ready for something beyond the ordinary.
My advice is to pack proper cold-weather layers, keep your camera close and be open to a change of plans. The ice, the weather and the wildlife will always have the final say.
For me, the defining memories are of those two October days: watching a polar bear family in the pack ice, then stepping onto a vast floating ice floe. That is what Le Commandant Charcot makes possible.
By Kasey Green, Cruise Consultant.
Curious about exploring Greenland aboard Le Commandant Charcot? Speak to Kasey about her first-hand experience, or let our Exploration Cruise Consultants help you find an expedition that suits your interests and sense of adventure.
